Still trying to figure out what exactly I have under the hood… the numbers don’t match what’s on the info plate (drivers door pillar)

Recently however I have found the casting number on the head just under the valve cover (thanks Fred!).  It revealed that the head was used both on 1949 built 216’s and 235’s.  (3835409)

http://www.1954advance-design.com/Stovebolt-engine/casting-numbers.html

In this case you would use the stamped number on the block to determine if the engine is 216 or 235.  Unfortunately – I can’t find a listing for this number anywhere. (C370252)

One of my Stovebolt brothers filled me in on the following …

there are two studs holding down the base of the carburetor. You should be able to see them. For a 216 manifold and carb, they will be 2 11/16″ center to center. For a 235 setup they will be 2 15/16″. You should be able to measure that.

Once I measure that, I’ll know for sure what I have under the hood!  Regardless it’s coming out.  If it’s a 235, I’ll have it rebuilt, if its a 216 – I’ll just toss it in favor of a 235 or 261.

UPDATE: July 2011

I’ve completed a lot of the tear down on the truck, completely pulling the cab and all sheet metal.  This allowed the best possible access to dropping the transmission and pulling the 216 (which I’m sure about now!).

Before I pull the engine, I wanted to get as much of it’s parts off as I could, not to make it lighter, but because it’s easier to apply some torque to an engine that’s bolted to the frame.

I had to pick up a harmonic balancer puller to remove said part.  It was only $20 and pulls more than just harmonic balancers.  It came off quite easy, and will be reused on my 235 engine.  (because I’m also  reusing the 216 generator and water pump) You can see the shaft on the balancer has a significant wear groove and will need to be sleeved.

Using compressed air, I opened up the fuel pump and fuel filter bowls, let the gas drain and blew out the lines before removing them.  I attempted to catch as much fuel in small containers as I could.  It was messy, but hey, it evaporates!

Using compressed air, I opened up the fuel pump and fuel filter bowls, let the gas drain and blew out the lines before removing them.  I attempted to catch as much fuel in small containers as I could.  It was messy, but hey, it evaporates!

I then proceeded to remove the carb, water pump, thermometer housing, starter and generator.

 

Finally before pulling, the transmission and bellhousing had to be removed.  This is covered over on the drive train section.

I don’t own an engine hoist, so I had to borrow one from my friend Bobby.  (same guy who pressed my bearings for me)  And the other small detail to iron out before pulling the engine, WHERE will I put it!?  I don’t plan on reusing this engine, so putting it in a proper engine stand wasn’t desired.  I had seen some mobile engine stands that guys had built which rested on castors.  That’s where I got the basic idea for my stand, but I needed something with bigger wheels allowing me to transport the engine over grass to temporary storage beside the house.  I decided to go with one of my kids discarded bicycles.  The 12″ tires were perfect, and could handle the 400lbs!  (I jumped on the bike prior!!)

Time to pull the 216 – two bolts holding the bellhousing to the crossmember came out no problem.  At the front I was surprised to see the engine wasn’t secured to the engine mount at all.  It was only resting on it, with the two bolt holes braised over!

At this point I pulled the valve cover and remove two head bolts.  the second from the end at the back on the left, and 2nd from the front on the right side.  I fed each bolt through a 4′ length of chain and back into the block.  Once the engine was supported by the lift, I proceeded to remove the bell housing.  I had previously loosened the bolts on the bell housing while the engine was still mounted to the frame so that it would be easier to remove with the hoist suspending the engine.

 

While I had it suspended with the hoist, curiosity got the best of me!  I decided to remove the oil pan to see how things looked.  I finally got my first glance at the dippers, the inside of the oil pan (which differed from the 235 oil pan), the oil pickup and rods.  Nothing too surprising, a lot of sludge at the bottom, but overall, decent shape.  It also allowed me to remove the timing over. This revealed a few cracked teeth on the gear!

  

Finally into it’s final resting place in the engine cart, and a test of strength for me!